Sunday, September 25, 2011

Handmade Kashmiri Pashmina, Cashmere, Jamawar Shawls

By Agus Rahman


Kashmiri Shawls have been renowed since centuries and were the pride of French Queen, Marie Antoinette. Having a long tradition of artistic excellence, the shawl is one of the most admired handmade fabric of Kashmir. Superb in workmanship,.

D) as the initiator of Shawl industry in Kashmir. It can be the Sultan whose enlightened rule encouraged promotion of arts as an organized trade and also the Pashmina or in Persian called "Pashm" that we know today is a legacy of that period.

Shawls are worn and used as a warm protective clothing all over the northern states today. Kashmir has become synonymous with shawls all over the world. It's a work of delicacy, tremendous concentration and too much of patience. The decoration is formed by weft threads interlocked where the colors change, the weavers passing them between the warps using bobbins around, which the variously coloured threads are wound. The raw material for pashmina is brought from and taken to for hand-weaving followed by embroidery and finishing.

Kashmiri shawls are rare and distinctive,. There are three fibres from which Kashmiri shawls are made - wool, pashmina and shahtoosh. The prices of the three cannot be compared - woollen shawls being within reach of the most modest budget, and shahtoosh being a one-in-a-lifetime purchase.

Woollen shawls are popular for the reason that of the embroidery worked on them, which is special to Kashmir. Both embroidery and the type of wool used bring concerning differences in the price. Wool woven in Kashmir is known as raffle.

Cashmere shawls and Pashmina Shawls have got a delicate, silky softness that sets them apart from ordinary woolen shawls. Obtained from the fleecy undergrowth of the rare Kashmiri goat through traditional combing techniques, their delicate silky softness carries an aura of luxury & class that created it the choice of kings and nobility in a bygone era. We designs, fabricate and export an exquisite range of Cashmere Shawls embellished with ethnic Kashimiri work and other elegant styles.

Although pure pashmnina is expensive, the cost is sometimes brought down by blending it with rabbit fur or with wool. It is on pashmina shawls that Kashmir's most exquisite embroidery is executed, sometimes covering the entire surface, earning it the name of 'jamawar'. A Jamawar shawl can, by virtue of the embroidery, increase the value of a shawl threefold.

Shahtoosh, from which the legendary 'ring shawl' is made, is incredibly light, soft and warm. The astronomical price it commands in the market is due to the scarcity of the raw material. High in the plateaux of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5, 000 m, roam the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops Hodgsoni). During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the throat are shed which are painstakingly collected by the nomads, eventually to supply to the Kashmiri shawl makers as shahtoosh.

'Sozni' (needlework) is generally done in a panel along the sides of the shawl. Sozni is usually done accordingly skilfully that the motif appears on both sides of the shawl, each side with a different colour scheme. This naturally has a bearing on the cost.

Another type of needle embroidery is popularly known as 'papi�r m�ch�' work because of the patterns additionally, the fashion in which it is executed. This is done either in broad panels on either side along the breadth of a shawl, or covering the entire surface of the breadth of a shawl or that of a stole.

A third type of embroidery is Aari or hook embroidery. Motifs here are the popular flower design finely worked in concentric rings of chain stitch.

A less frequently seen weave done just on pashmina, covers the surface with tiny lozenge shaped squares, earning it the delightful name of 'chashm-e-bulbul, ' or "eye of the bulbul". As this weave is a masterpiece of the weaver's art, it is normally not embroidered upon.

Kashmir shawls were first worn in trendy circles in the West in the third quarter of the eighteenth century, and by 1800 the shawl trade between Kashmir and also the West was well set. The appearance of European agents in Kashmir added fresh colour to an already cosmopolitan scene.

Except woven imitations Persia as well created embroidered shawls in the Kashmir fashion however , the fact remains that KASHMIRI Shawls have become a must have for every lady for the reason that of its Royal appeal.




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1 comment:

  1. Pashmina a sole india product. Major manufacturing market in cashmere is online, now at http://pashmina.talkingthreads.in

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